Storing Cigars
In the two previous installments of Cigar Aficionado's
cigar education series -- excerpted from editor and
publisher Marvin R. Shanken's Shanken's Cigar Handbook
-- we examined cigar shapes, colors and sizes as well as
proper cutting and lighting techniques. In this
installment we explore the ways cigar aficionados can
maintain the freshness of their cigars.
In many ways, fine cigars are like wine, orchids or
humans traveling in space. They are natural, organic and
sensitive to their environment. They are the mature
products of a carefully controlled combination of
temperature and moisture.
The first thing to know is that cigars should stay in a
humidor (the first syllable rhymes with "you," as in the
word "humid") until they're ready to be smoked. When
necessary, you can get away with keeping properly
humidified cigars in a sealed plastic bag with a small,
damp paper towel for a day or so. But, if you want to
become a true aficionado, a humidor is an essential
piece of equipment.
A humidor is an elegantly simple device that keeps
cigars at their best by maintaining them in conditions
similar to those in which their tobacco grew, fermented
and was rolled.
Left out in a heated or air-conditioned room, a cigar
can dry out and die as quickly as the most delicate
flower -- in less than an hour. In a properly maintained
humidor, the atmosphere inside of which closely mimics
that of a tropical isle, cigars can be kept for years.
Dedicated aficionados often have more than one humidor.
Perhaps a large one that stays at home, and a smaller,
more portable one that holds a day's or two's supply.
Some aficionados even keep different humidors for
different brands of cigars. Within a humidor, the scents
from various cigars mingle or "marry," and subtle shifts
in flavor can result from cigars of one sort being
stored adjacent to very different ones.
WHAT IS A HUMIDOR? A humidor is, quite simply, a storage
container designed to allow controlled air flow and
equipped with a device that maintains the internal
humidity in the range of 70 to 75 percent; its internal
temperature should be maintained in a narrow range of
about 68 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit. (Without something to
maintain the internal humidity, it's not a humidor; it's
just a box.) Humidors come in all sizes. Travel-sized
humidors hold just a few cigars; room-sized humidors
hold thousands of boxes of cigars.
Note that a humidor is not a sealed environment. Inside
an airtight moisturized container, cigars are likely to
become moldy. For that reason, it's better to have air
circulating between the cigars in your humidor than it
is to squish them in too tightly.
While a humidor needs a device that maintains moisture
levels, it does not necessarily need a gauge. Some
humidors, however, come with hygrometers, which indicate
the interior humidity. While the analog models (the
round gauges with a needle inside) often have the
appealing style of a dial on a sports car's dashboard,
they are frequently inaccurate. Digital hygrometers, on
the other hand, are usually reliable to a level of plus
or minus 2 percent.
No matter what a thermometer or hygrometer says, the
true measure of your humidor's performance will be the
condition of the cigars inside. If the cigars are
exuding a little oil, the conditions are perfect. If
they seem too dry, you add more water. If they turn
moldy, you have to throw out the cigars (probably with a
tear or two in your eye), no matter what the hygrometer
says. There's even a species of beetle, called a tobacco
beetle, which can quickly bore holes through the
contents of humidors. This will sometimes occur when the
humidor maintains a temperature above 75 degrees for
more than 24 hours. If your humidor becomes afflicted
with these insects, freeze the contaminated cigars for
48 hours, then transfer them to the refrigerator for an
additional 24 hours before returning them to your
humidor. The beetles and their larvae will not survive.
Be sure to wipe down your humidor with a damp cloth
(using only distilled water) before returning the
cigars.
MAINTAINING A HUMIDOR Humidors are much simpler to
maintain than other balanced environments, such as
tropical fish tanks. All you have to do is keep the lid
or door shut and periodically add distilled water to the
humidifying device. (If you use regular tap water, the
minerals in it are likely to collect on the humidifier
and diminish its ability to emit and absorb moisture.)
A little common sense helps, too. Exposing a humidor to
temperature extremes such as in direct sunlight or on
top of an air conditioner or radiator is bad for the
humidor -- and your cigars.
SELECTING YOUR HUMIDOR Investing in a humidor is a big
decision. Good humidors aren't cheap, but there's no
point in having a bad humidor. A humidor that does not
maintain a constant desired level of humidity, no matter
how pretty it is, is a waste of money and cigars.
Consider how wine lovers store their wine. They're
protecting an investment. Your cigars are equally
valuable, and deserve a similar level of care.
The first step is to decide what size humidor you want.
A good guide is to buy a humidor that's a little bigger
than what you think you need. At the same time, you
might want to investigate whether your local cigar
retailer or cigar club has rental facilities that will
let you store the bulk of your stock, so that you'll
only need room for a few days' reserve at home or at
work.
Just as if you were buying a new car, you'll want to
look carefully at the construction and performance
features of a humidor, as well as at its finish. If the
seams aren't perfect, or if the corners aren't square,
skip that humidor.
Pay particular attention to the rim and the lid, and how
they fit together. The lid should shut tightly. For the
record, a humidor lid should not "seal" completely; it
should allow a minute amount of air to circulate in and
out of the box. But any visible warping will mean that
too much air gets in and too much moisture gets out,
even if there's a "lip" that fits inside the lid.
A heavy lid is generally an advantage. Many humidors,
even those with locks, rely on the weight of the lid to
keep them tightly shut. This, however, creates a
challenge. A humidor should be designed to be in
balance, whether open or shut. If the lid opens too far,
its weight can cause the humidor to flip up or fall
over. If the lid doesn't open far enough to stay
balanced in a upright position, it might come crashing
back down on your fingers.
Locks aren't a bad idea. Consider the value -- both
emotional and financial -- of the collection that you
are going to keep in the humidor. Then consider the
damage that could be done by curious prying fingers, by
pilfering or even by vandalism (we could tell you
stories...). You are likely to want a lock. Just be sure
to have a duplicate key tucked away in a safe place.
Nothing is more heartbreaking than to have to tamper
with the perfectly fitted and carefully finished edges
of a finely crafted box.
The first thing to notice on the inside of a humidor is
the humidification device. Most humidification devices
are simple -- little more than a sponge material or a
bottle that slowly emits moisture. (Simple as they are,
these devices are still light-years ahead of one
old-fashioned humidification device: apple cores.) The
biggest variable in proper humidification, after good
construction, is not the type of humidification system
you have, but whether or not you remember to add the
needed water or chemicals at regular intervals.
Look for a humidor lined with a fairly nonaromatic
cedar, such as Spanish cedar. Cedar absorbs and re-emits
moisture in a way that helps the tobaccos that are
blended into a fine cigar to age and mature. (If you are
ambitious and handy enough and decide to build your own
humidor, be aware that you can't use just any cedar. The
highly aromatic cedar used to line closets and wool
chests would do disastrous things to the flavor of your
cigars.)
Humidor trays make it easy for you to organize, and
occasionally rotate, your collection. The inside of a
humidor has variations in humidity, despite the various
slots that promote internal air circulation and reduce
the likelihood that the base woods and the veneer will
warp or separate. Within this microclimate, you should
introduce your driest cigars as far away as possible
from the humidification device so that they re-attain
proper hydration as slowly and evenly as possible.
Handles can he helpful on larger humidors, particularly
if you will be moving the humidor around a room while
offering cigars. If you are planning to put the humidor
on a table or sideboard, a felt bottom will help protect
the humidor and the furniture.
Some humidors have magnets set into the underside of the
lid, so you can store a cigar cutter there. This is good
if it keeps you from misplacing an expensive cutter, and
bad if it leads you to opening the humidor more often or
leaving it open for longer periods of time. Before you
get excited about a lid magnet, be sure to find out what
the cutter that it's supposed to hold will cost you. If
you have scissors or a more expensive guillotine cutter,
consider anchoring it to your humidor with an elegant
chain, which will guarantee that the cutter will be
available whenever you want it.
Finding a humidor with good construction and features
isn't as hard as it sounds. Better humidor manufacturers
are fanatical about quality control. Moreover, reputable
tobacconists will reject humidors with even tiny
functional defects.
Once you have decided on all of the basics and
accessories, you might as well let yourself be dazzled
by the designs and finishes. Admire the gleaming rare
wood surfaces, catch the highlights dancing in a deep
rich lacquer finish, or study the intricate marquetry
picture. Marvel at some of the more curved and
sculptural shapes. You are buying a work of art. Be sure
you love it: it's likely to be an important part of your
home or office for many years to come.
SEASONING A HUMIDOR It takes time, patience and a little
know-how to get a new humidor ready to hold cigars.
You're trying to recreate the tropical environments
where most cigars are made, and you can't rush the
process. Putting cigars into a dry humidor can ruin good
smokes.
Most humidors have an interior made of untreated Spanish
cedar, the preferred wood for humidifying and aging
premium cigars. The wood needs to be humidified, or
seasoned, before the box is ready to hold cigars. (Some
humidors have varnished or finished wood interiors that
don't need to be seasoned.)
Take a new sponge -- make sure it is unscented and free
of soap -- and wet it with a liberal dose of distilled
water. Wipe down all the exposed wood, including any
trays and dividers, and the interior lid. Avoid using a
paper towel or a fraying cloth; these will literally
leave a paper trail on the wood. After you've wiped down
the wood, squirt the sponge with more distilled water,
then place it inside the humidor on a plastic bag -- to
avoid direct contact with the wood -- and close the lid.
Next, prepare your humidification device according to
the manufacturer's instructions. Unless the manufacturer
specifically states that you can use tap water, use only
distilled water. Tap water contains minerals that will
destroy most humidification systems by leaving deposits
that will clog the humidor element. Once the
humidification element is filled, be sure to wipe it
down to remove all the excess water. Rest it on a hand
towel for approximately 30 minutes.
Close the humidor with its humidifying element and the
damp sponge, and leave it overnight. The next day,
refresh the humidification device (it may not need it)\
and check the sponge. If it is fairly dry, add more
distilled water. If it is very damp, leave it alone.
Let the humidor sit another night, and then remove the
sponge and plastic bag. The walls of the humidor have
now absorbed all the water they need, and now you can
safely store your cigars.
THINGS NOT TO DO Most of the time, if you let cigars dry
out, you have to write off your investment as a learning
experience, albeit sometimes an expensive one. In some
cases, cigars can be reconditioned through weeks in a
good humidor, but it's a tricky business, and best left
to someone with great patience and experience. If you
insist on trying to do it yourself, proceed slowly. Over
a period of several weeks, gradually move the cigars
from the outer corners into the center of your humidor.
All of the other myths about how to restore dried-out
cigars are just that -- myths. Remember that a cigar has
many layers of tobacco. It's disastrous for the various
layers to become moist or dry out at different rates.
For example, if a cigar is placed in a hyper-moist
environment, and then taken out of that moist
environment, the outside dries and shrinks while the
inside is still swollen, and the cigar splits open. (Not
a pretty sight.)
Here are some of the odder suggestions we've heard.
Don't try them. EVER. * Put your cigars in the bathroom
and run the shower until the hot water gives out. *
Steam them in the upper rack of a dishwasher. * Sneak
them into the steam room at the health club.
HOW TO CARRY CIGARS When you take cigars with you on
your travels, you need to protect them from physical
damage, as well as from drying. Travel humidors are an
ideal solution. Many are compact enough to easily slip
into your briefcase or the small bag you take onboard
aircraft (not that it's likely that you'll be allowed to
smoke there).
When buying a travel humidor, first make sure that it
will accommodate cigars of the size and shape you
prefer. Then check it for durability. No matter how
careful you are, your travel humidor will get jostled
quite a bit. Make sure that it has a hinge that will
stand up to a bit of abuse and repeated openings. (If
you're a frequent international flyer, you'll find
yourself constantly opening the case for customs
inspectors who are hunting for Cuban cigars.) One long
"piano" hinge that runs the length of the humidor is
generally better than two or more hinges. Also, check to
be sure that the humidification unit will stay in place
as you sprint for a taxi or jam your bag into an
overhead compartment.
Even if you don't travel a lot, you may still want a
travel humidor. They are extremely convenient for
setting up a temporary depot of cigars in another part
of your home. They are also perfect for keeping a few
cigars humidified during the transition from a store's
humidor to your own.
Sometimes, however, even a travel humidor is too much.
Then you may want to rely on tubos and cigar cases.
Tubos -- cigars that come packed in tubes, which help
them stay properly humidified after they are taken out
of a humidor -- are a good one-at-a-time solution.
You can also purchase elegant silver or wooden tubes
that will keep individual cigars properly moisturized
for up to 72 hours. The drawback is that you will need
several such tubes to carry a day's supply. On top of
that, your tailor will hate them: they tend to be bulky
and heavy and, when placed in a pocket, they ruin the
"drape" of a garment.
Often the answer is to carry an elegant leather cigar
case, loaded with the cigars you hope to smoke that day,
and return any that you don't smoke that day to the
humidor each evening. If you always smoke the same kind
of cigar, you can get a case that fits your cigars
exactly -- with "fingers" of the right diameter, and
with the ability to telescope, if you favor long cigars.
Fingered cases offer the best protection because even a
single cigar is held firmly in place and does not roll
and bounce around within. If you smoke a varied
selection, however, you will probably want to get an
"open" case -- one without dividers or molded fingers --
which will accommodate a variety of sizes.
When you buy a cigar case, wear the coat or jacket that
has the smallest pockets of all the garments in your
wardrobe. Make sure that the case fits, and that you can
live with the resulting bulge. Conversely, next time you
go to have a suit, jacket or coat fitted, be sure to
bring your cigar case. A good tailor will be able to
adapt the garment so you can carry the case without
looking as if you're packing a pistol.
Also, when shopping for a case bring several cigars. (Or
use the occasion as an excuse to buy a few.) The first
test of any case is how well it fits your cigars. Load
the case and see if the you can slip the cigars in and
out with reasonable ease. Close the case, to make sure
that it is not too short for your cigars.
You'll want the case to be lined, so your cigars won't
take on a leathery taste, and to prevent the tragedy of
a fine cigar's wrapper snagging on rough, less-finished
leather. The thickness of the leather is a matter of
personal preference. The thicker the leather, the
greater the protection. But thicker leather also adds
weight and bulk.
Selecting the right cigar case can take a bit of time;
there are more variables than you would expect. Cigar
cases are made with the same craftsmanship as fine
footwear, and they come in almost as many styles. Choose
carefully. A fine cigar case is not only extremely
functional, it is also an accessory that will
distinguish you as a person of taste. |
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